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Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is slid right into has pulled away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Camper Roof Replacement West Covina. I'm thinking the repair work will entail replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we realized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out because it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The back brace assembly is fine, but the front one is broken at the base and entirely appeared on top, to ensure that the leading assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey metal - it's the grey little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just intending to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even get us via the summer - without having to put in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to discover a fast and efficient remedy. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I require to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing system decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll also notice just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the final actions of this post (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the. Getting rid of the placing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be removed. Here's a take a look at the circular channel at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, after that you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is covered under. Simply pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing suddenly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Just know it's coming! Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were removed I might slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roofing system outdoor decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

Then I could swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 wide putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch large taping blade. Then I loosened up the other corner trim similarly, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I might raise the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which implies I'll end getting rid of those edge trim items right down besides. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The edge of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting but glue now) and then I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I started very carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding back the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scraped up some of the busted bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to bring up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Now I can see the steel framing underneath. But after that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that joins the pieces with each other. I don't know just how specifically they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roof was losing toughness and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which means I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim pieces right down nevertheless. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet glue now) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Camper Roof Replacement West Covina. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I started very carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scraped up several of the broken bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to bring up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framing beneath. However after that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the items together. I do not recognize just how specifically they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are joined together at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

I quickly understood the roof was losing strength and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.