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Chino Hills Camper Repair

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Chino Hills, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, yet pulled back both awning just to be safe. The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the gutter had actually been drawn away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has pulled away from the wall surface and turned a bit - Chino Hills Camper Repair. I'm assuming the repair will involve changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repair services, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out since it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is great. The back brace assembly is fine, but the front one is broken at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio practical? Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey steel - it's the grey little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is damaged it has to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would like guidance as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - perhaps even get us via the summer - without needing to place in an all new awning! We remain in a really serious bind since we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather find a fast and effective service. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Improvement Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing system. But in order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to remove the RV awning as well.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the last actions of this message (exposing the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step up until the awning was on the ground however I noticed this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply pull back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the right. Eliminating the mounting bracket of the awning. Once the placing brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily just like a routine piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Here's a look at the round network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's simply like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce completion with an energy knife if it is tucked under the rail) and after that just tug it out.

You may have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out!

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 established screws were eliminated I could move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can get rid of the old roof decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The next point holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. To raise that, the edge molding must be eliminated.

I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scraper to a stiff 6 vast putty blade. This piece chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened up the other corner trim in the very same means, and bent it sideways simply sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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The edge of the roofing decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting but glue now) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole point began to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not know exactly how specifically they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The items of roof covering ply are signed up with together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roofing system was losing toughness and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off right before the first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those edge trim pieces all the way down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

It's just standing out via the staples. The side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge. Exact same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting however glue at this moment) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Chino Hills Camper Repair. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding back the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scraped up a few of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing began to bring up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I can see the steel framework under. However after that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the pieces together. I don't know how specifically they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roof was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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