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Ontario Camper Repair And Service

Published May 31, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Replacement Ontario, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking handles tightened up down.) I didn't see anything awry, yet withdrawed both awning just to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the appropriate hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is glided right into has pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Ontario Camper Repair And Service. I'm assuming the repair service will require replacing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repairs, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear brace assembly is fine, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no much longer fastens to the camper.

Also the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Ontario Camper Repair And Service).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it has to be entirely replaced? The motor home is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even obtain us via the summer - without having to place in an all new awning! We remain in a very serious bind due to the fact that we have actually a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather find a fast and effective remedy. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Improvement Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll also see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first prior to the last actions of this blog post (revealing the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action until the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the right. Getting rid of the mounting brace of the awning. As soon as the mounting braces are removed, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is essentially much like a regular item of aluminum roof edge trim molding except that at the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Below's a take a look at the circular channel at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that just pull it out.

You may have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Just yank it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply glides right off the canvas by moving the whole rail away.

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When the 2 set screws were removed I can glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I may end up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift need to be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding need to be gotten rid of.

I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened up the other edge trim in the very same method, and curved it laterally just sufficient so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front side.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this point) and then I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to bring up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I can see the steel framing underneath. But after that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not know just how exactly they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roofing was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off simply before the initial joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items all the means down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this factor) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Ontario Camper Repair And Service. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. I began carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scratched up a few of the broken bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing started to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I do not recognize just how exactly they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roof covering was losing toughness and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the very first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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