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Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Garden Grove

Published Jun 01, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Repair Near Me Garden Grove, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually drawn away from the wall and twisted a bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Garden Grove. I'm presuming the repair will involve replacing that whole size of rain gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair work, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience before we realized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is broken near the bottom and completely appeared on top, so that the leading support arm no more fastens to the camper. We remain in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Garden Grove).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it has to be totally changed? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would such as suggestions regarding just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summer season - without needing to put in a new awning! We remain in an extremely serious bind due to the fact that we have a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to find a fast and effective service. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing system decking, I need to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pushing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also discover how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to come off initially prior to the final actions of this message (revealing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's a detail of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I discovered this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the placing bracket of the awning. When the placing braces are separated, it's time to remove the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically much like a regular item of aluminum roof covering edge trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, after that you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's much like removing the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut the end with an energy blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. When I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples holding it down. I tore them out as ideal I could. The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding have to be removed.

After that I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Garden Grove, CA

At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same method, and curved it laterally simply enough so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those edge trim pieces all the method down. But we'll obtain to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling but adhesive at this point) and then I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scratched up several of the broken little bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to bring up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I could see the steel framing under. Yet after that the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the pieces with each other. I do not recognize exactly how exactly they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly realized the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so broke it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The edge of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling however glue at this point) and afterwards I might tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Garden Grove. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the busted little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I can see the steel framework beneath. However then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize just how exactly they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roofing was losing strength and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off just before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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